Food Shopping

After years of experimenting, I have found my favourite speciality shops in a radius of 15 km from my home. Many have been in business from my first days in the region, others are new additions which I hope will succeed. In the season there is a charming but tiny épicerie/boulangerie serving excellent coffee in the centre of the village. For bigger shops below are my favourites.

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Boucherie La Charolaise, Jean Claude Malavard, Apt

I never miss a visit to Malavard when I am in the region. A family run food-shop with top quality meats, game, poultry and charcuterie in addition to an array of prepared Provencal dishes like lapin a la moutarde made fresh everyday. Worth the wait if there is a line-up on market day.

I always plan a menu with them when it is a special occasion (Christmas and Easter) and order ahead. I have never been disappointed.

Lumières/Goult

Two nearby espicierie when Lacoste is shut:

Lumières - Epicerie de Lumieres: an all-round grocery shop which is good for bread, vegetables, cheese (excellent fresh mozzarella), olives and tapenade, charcuterie, water/soft-drinks but also general grocery cleaning, drogerie. +33490724023

Goult - Epicerie Maurel: Madame Maurel's award-winning 'épicerie has daily necessities as well as a range of provençal delicacies, wines and fresh local fruit & vegetables. +33 4 90 72 20 02

Cosy Fruits à Coustellet

Cozy Fruits à Coustellet is a high quality green grocer which also offers a section of cheeses, cold meats, groceries and wines.

There is a home delivery service within a radius of 15 km around Coustellet which is free for any purchase over € 50.

Order your products the day before, exclusively by telephone on 0490740113 from Tuesday to Saturday from 8:30 am to 6:00 pm.

Delivieries to Lacoste between 9:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. the next day. in Coustellet, Maubec, Robion, Cavaillon, Cheval-Blanc, Lagnes, Gordes, Lacoste, les Beaumettes, Joucas ..

Cabecou et Poivre d'ane, Apt

My preferred cheese shop with a wide range of regional chèvre, fromages de brebis and well-loved gourmet cheeses from all-over France. Tasting menu served at lunch with 5 cheeses, a green salad a glass of wine, café for 16€.

Open Tuesday to Saturday.+33 (0)4.90.04.01.78

Naturellement Paysan, 111A Chemin des Guillaumets, 84660 Coustellet

A farmer’s collective selling local produce direct to the public. Open Monday through Saturday, a very welcome extension of the farmer’s market. Fruit, vegetables, meat, beer and wine, cheese and other specialties with a good selection of bio produce.

Boulangerie Patisserie Lyse, 267 route de Gordes, Cabrières d'Avignon 84220

The best patisserie is just outside Coustellet across from the Musée de Lavande on the way to Gordes. Many local speciality breads, cakes and biscuits in addition to macarons and individual portions of ice-creams and sorbets. Open Tues to Saturday all-day and Sunday mornings

Le Moulin Saint Augustin, D900, Coustellet

Originally a 16th century flour mill, the Moulin Saint Augustin produces olive oil from Aglandau olives which exude a lovely scent of artichokes. In the attractive shop with English speaking staff, olive oil tastings are offered They also have an impressive selection of olive wood bowls, utensils and other local handicrafts in addition to tapenade and other local delicacies +33490724366

Poissonnerie Lo Traiteur de la Mer

A new addition to the good quality food shops in Coustellet: an excellent fish and seafood shop which serves shellfish on the terrace overlooking the farmer’s market. +33 (0) 432529130

Bals'art, 15 rue du Castrum, 84220 Rousillon

A delightful boutique which offers tasting of their wide range of balsamic creations. Delightful concoctions using 100% natural ingredients and broad range to flavours to raise the making of vinegar to a fine art. +33432521640

Pottery shopping

The Luberon is well known for its ceramics (faience, porcelaine, gres) inspired by the rich mineral deposits in the area in addition to the sublime ochres which are available nearby in for example Roussillon.

Apt is known for its ‘mixed clay’ ceramics, a technique pioneered in the 18th century which creates kaleidoscope of colours in marble like patterns in the clay.

There are excellent potters in Bonnieux, Goult, Maubec, Roussillon, Apt, The south of France is known for working with Terre Vernissée: terracotta clay, decorated and/or glazed using copper, iron or cobalt at earthenware temperature. Stoneware (Gres), popular in the Luberon, is fired at high temperatures for extra durability: Guy Frederic Barrielle-Apt); M. Christine Denniel - Bonnieux; Helga & Uwe Krause in Gordes, Cyrielle Pardigon in Maubec. Some produce both porcelain and stoneware, such as Alain Briffa in Roussillon and Denis Bouniard in Oppede-le-vieux.

To discover the range of pottery available watch for the pottery markets. There is an outstanding market in Bonnieux every year at Easter and an important pottery market for pottery in Apt in August. Our home dishes are a traditional 19th century design, bought at Ceramique Pichon in Uzes.

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Ateliers Boutique Terra Terre, 958A route des Beaumettes La Masselle 84560 Ménerbes

Original pottery that is both decorative and useful. Marie Buatois, has a light, pretty and modern style. The atelier boutique is open daily year round+336.20.15.60.03
touteslescouleurs9@gmail.com

The pottery has a stand in the markets of Menerbes (Thursday) and Joucas (Tuesday) and a good collection in Domaine de la Citadelle.

Faïences d'Apt - Terres Mêlées, Apt, Coustellet, St Saturnin d'Apt

Apt became a centre for ceramics in the eighteenth century linked to the abundance of its clays and ochres pigments. The technique of marbling different became a speciality. The traditional creations were often in the Baroque style of Louis XVI, decorated with foliage, fruits and small figurines. of Louis XVI inspiration.

The art is kept alive by local producers who make and sell their creations in the region around Apt. near Apt

Pascale Mestre : works with a broad colour palette creating uniquely modern motifs Pascale Mestre - Hameau Les Cliers 84490 Saint Saturnin lès Apt T. 04 90 72 02 62 ou 06 76 37 60 78. Boutique de vente : route d’Apt Coustellet 84220

Christine Jouval-Marcel : works with a colour palette of blue and grey clays adding modernity to her creations Faïences Christine Jouval. 575 avenue Victor Hugo - Quartier des Ocres 84400 Apt T. 06 73 61 79 56 or christine-84@orange.fr

Yvonne Rigo working with her son fils Benoit specialise in thrown pottery made from mixed clay in the classic warm tones of the region, (yellows, oranges, browns) .Atelier de faïences Rigo - 98 rue de la République 84400 Apt T. 04 90 04 74 66 faiences.rigo@orange.fr

Jean-Claude Savalli`; creates unique pieces with his special mosaic process. Faïencerie d’Apt - 20 rue Eugène Brunel 84400 Apt. T. 06 62 48 00 87 faienceapt@sfr.fr. Site web : www.faience-apt.fr

Sentier des Ochres, Roussillon, 84220

Roussillon is a magnet for potters, given its history and association with ochre pigments, caused by iron oxide deposits in the sandy soil. Natural paints first used by prehistoric man, Ochres were also very popular at the time of the French Revolution.

You can visit Le Sentier des Ocres, a former quarry and walk through the brilliantly coloured sands.. Then shop at the gallery , Haut Village, Place du Castrum +33490056299. Courses and workshop are available at the Ochre Conservatory in the old Mathieu factory which dates from 1920.

Another pottery shop I love in Roussillon is Le Loir dans L’Arrosoir for the unique patterns and shapes of her pieces. +33781018048

Anduze

The iconic pedestaled pottery seen in the villages and gardens of Provence is actually inspired by the Medici style vases of Italy. A community of artisans in Anduze, a village in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France, are keeping alive the tradition and the shape is now very making the traditional vases with new glazes and finishes in addition to the classic style. The shape has also become popular for glasses, candles etc in addition to the traditional vases.

About a 90 minute drive from La Raffine, a visit to Anduze makes for an interesting day trip. There is even a Route du Vase d’Anduze to help you explore over a dozen different workshops around the village and the nearby towns.

I usually find what I want in La Poterie de la Madeleine which is reviving the work of the 18th century potters. Route de Nîmes, 30350 Lezan

Tél. : 04 66 61 63 44

Ceramique Pichon, Uzes 30700

Our main service (celadon) was collected over many years from Céramique Pichon in Uzès where they have been been making pottery since 1802 with beautiful glazes and shapes. They specialise in braiding and other decorative forms. A family business with a fascinating history which is in the throes of an important restructure.. +33466221186.

One can still find samples on auctions and in the antique markets from time to time. Hopefully they will reopen their workshop and store soon.

Cyrielle Pardigon, 84660 Maubec +33695462331

Guy Frédéric Barrielle, 84400 Apt +33607658743

gfbarrielle.com

M. Christine Denniel, 84480 Bonnieux +33686745398

Helga and Uwe Krause, Gordes +33490723109

Denis Bouniard, Atelier des Cendres, rue Sainte-Cécile, Oppède-le-Vieux

Local wineries:

Get to know the wines of the Luberon and beyond

While wine has been produced in the area since around 30 AD the quantity of vines being cultivated by a growing number local vignerons is a welcome transformation of the paysage. There are two AOC’s produced locally: Côtes du Luberon AOC and Côtes de Ventoux AOC. Red wine production dominates (60%), followed by the famed rosés, and rarer white wines, account for only 4%. Reds: are mostly from Grenache noir, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan; Rosé: The same varieties are used as for the red, and up to 20% of the allowed varieties for white wine may be used. Whites: are from Clairette blanche, Grenache blanc, Ugni blanc, Roussanne and Marsanne. Most of the vineyards are on the road to bio-dynamic cultivation. Watch for wines with the French organic label “AB” which use methods in harmony with nature (and are better for your body).

We are loyal purchasers of Domaine de la Verriere, Chateau de la Canorgue and Ruffinato but also enjoy visiting newer vineyards which offer excellent wine-tasting and additional attractions ranging from olive mills, museums, historical homes. The latter include: La Royere, Domaine de la Citadelle, Mas des Infirmieres, Chateau de Mille which are all within a 10 minute drive.

Further afield are the great southern Rhone wines which should also be a destination for wine connoisseurs. I would recommend the following iconic estates surrounding the town of Cheateauneuf de Pape: Chateau Nerthes, Chateaux Vieux Télégraphe, Chateau Mont Redon. Beautiful terroirs with top-quality wines.

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Château de la Canorgue, Bonnieux 84480

Château la Canorgue has won numerous awards for its wines.

A family property for over 200 years, Jean-Pierre Margan, began using organic methods and biodynamics to produce high quality wines in the seventies. The Chateaux was built on the remains of an ancient Roman villa and it takes its name from the underground channels the Romans hollowed out from the rock to collect water. The owners of the domaine were raised to the status of counts by Pope Benoit XIV. The vineyard is featured in the popular movie from Ridley Scott, A Good Life, with Russell Crowe. Tel +33 (0)4 90 75 81 01 Open for wine purchases only Monday to Saturday.

Domaine-Ruffinato, Quartier le Tubet, Menerbes, 84560

The dynamic mayor of Menerbes, is also the founder of Domaine Ruffinatto. The son of winemakers, Christian started the domaine in 2001 and his natural wines today are among the most loved in the Luberon.

I am a big fan of his fresh round white wines ( a blend of vermentino, roussanne et clairette). His red wines also have many fans for their original combination of Syrah and la counoise, a rustic grape overlooked by other winemakers. Wine tastings can be organised +33630809520

Domaine de la Verrière, Goult 84220

This beautiful 28 hectares domaine sits above the Luberon Valley across from Bonnieux and Lacoste.

In the 15th century, this estate was the property of King Rene of Provence who brought in Italian glassmakers (hence the name).

The Maubert family have owned the vineyard since 1969. They produce excellent organic wine: 4 reds, 3 whites and 3 roses. The Ventoux Rose is praised by wine critics and may sell out in the late summer. . The reds are akin to Rhone Cru coming from very old vines planted red clay studded.

This is a quality grower of wines at great value. +33(0)4 90 72 20 88

Domaine de la Citadelle, 601 Route de Cavaillon, 84560 Ménerbes

Created in 1990 by Yves Rousset-Rouard at the foot of the village of Ménerbes, Valérie et Yannick Panagiotis have had the reins since 2022.

The wines are a reference in the region. Syrah is at the heart of the reds along with Grenache noir, Mourvèdre, and more. La Roussanne leads the whites accompanied by Marsanne, Grenache blanc and others.

There is a very attractive and comfortable tasting room open daily, and the estate is a must-see destination with two restaurants open year-round (The Bistro and Tayac) in addition to a museum dedicated to a huge assortment of heritage cork-screws and a vast botanical garden. +33 (0)4 90 72 41 58

Mas Des Infirmières, 1575 Route du Four Neuf 84580 Oppède

Modern vineyard founded by Ridley Scott, a long term resident of the Luberon. Situated in northern Luberon the vast expanses of Grenache and Syrah vines are captivating. The wine cellar is inspired by the characteristics of a Provencal cellar The shop, open all year round, will immerse you in the universe of the films directed by Ridley Scott and the fine wines of the Mas des Infermières. Tours of the vineyard are available in addition to wine-tasting. Not to be missed are the regulars outdoor screenings of iconic Scott family films, accompanied by an individual packed lunch with wine. +33 (0)4 90 75 66 16

La Royere, 375, route de la Sénancole 84580 Oppède

A highly rated rose from a private independent winery dedicated to organic farming of grapes typical of the Rhone Valley on the historic vineyard of the Hugues family. White and red wines and an eau-de vie Marc are also of good quality.

In addition to wine La Royere has an olive oil mill, a museum dedicated to the history of olive oil, a boutique and tasting room where one can sample their wine and cold-pressed olive oil in addition to a lavender honey produced in small batches on the heights of the village of Sault. The guides, often the family of the vineyard owners offer an informative wine tasting with excellent English skills. In summary the perfect spot to experience some of the culture of Provence. Tel. +33 (0)4 90 76 87 76

Château Lacoste, 2750 route de la Cride, Le-Puy-Ste-Réparade, 13610

Château Lacoste is a vineyard dedicated to modern creativity where the finest wines are produced in a surrounding which also houses exceptional artworks. You can walk through 180 hectares of wooded valleys and and vines discovering the art of world famous modern artists and architects. Tours of the art and architecture can be combined with a tasting visit to the winery. Excellent dining in Francis Mallman’s restaurant or le Cafe de Tadao Ando. I am a fan of their rosés.

Cave Aureto, Domaine de la Coquillade, Gargas 84400

Aureto has extensive vineyards mostly located in the Mont Ventoux appellation but also in the Luberon appellation. Created in 2007 by enthusiasts of the region, they are passionate about their wine-making and they will allow you to tour the vineyard (every Wednesday) and they will host workshops and wine-tasting. Excellent whites and reds. A close relationship with the Domaine de la Coquillade, the luxury hotel and restaurnant where you can enjoy the wines and food pairings.

Chateau de Mille, Route de Bonnieux, 84400 Apt, France

The oldest wine domain in the Luberon with 25 acres between Bonnieux and Apt. Recently fully renovated under the leadership of Constance and Laurence Slaughter, the winery is on the road to being fully bio-dynamic. Tasting daily from 10:00 am in the summer except Sundays.

Join their soirées, Friday and Saturday evenings from 18h30 à 22h, for an evening of music, charcuterie and a wine-bar in this beautiful estate.

+33(0) 4.88.85.22.15

Local Fashion Shops

There are a few excellent boutiques for fashion in the Luberon, which are always a destination when I am in the region. Otherwise I head to Aix-en-Provence known as the 21st suburb of Paris with its many pedestrian streets full of high end fashion boutiques. Head to the Cours Mirabeau and explore all the side streets and shop to your heart’s content.

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Aubergine, Bonnieux, 84480

Women’s fashion with a good selection of Aspesi, Hâche. Beautiful accessories. English speaking owner.

Boutique Maria Maurer, 17 Place Septier, Apt 84400

Beautiful stretch linen fabric in classic jackets, dresses and trousers with creative accessories. Maria will give you a warm welcome and helpful styling suggestions.

Sacha Decoration Moda, Menerbes 84560

My favourite clothes shop in the Luberon. This village house has several levels of men’s and women’s fashion, accessories and home decoration. Well curated selection from French and Italian designers like Piazza Sempione, Valentino Red, Hâche, Tods with some local French designers.….Good assortment of swimwear, shoes on the top level.. Open Tuesday to Saturday but closed for lunch hour.

Where to: gift shopping

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La Roumanière, Place de l'église, Robion, 84440

La Roumanière is a charming boutique (confiturerie, biscuiterie et miellerie) in Robion selling traditional jams, condiments, cakes and biscuits. Available in pretty baskets and packaging. We always include at least one item in our welcome pack. Concours Général Agricole 2019. Lovely gifts to bring back a taste of Provence.

La Boutique en face, Place du Marche, Coustellet

A charming mix of clothing made from natural linens, household items and stationery inspired by Scanda design. it is a must visit and is open on Sunday’s during the farmer’s market too.

SHOPSCAD boutique, Lacoste

Amongst the student’s studios in Lacoste, SHOPSCAD is open to the public to sell artwork (paintings, jewellery etc) from former students, faculty and alumni. A good source for original mementos of Lacoste.

Edith Mézard, Chateau de l'Ange, 84220 Goult

In the tiny town of Lumieres, Edith Mezard is known for her custom-made pillows and linens hand -embroidered with monograms or words. For the last two years she has also hosted Casa Lopez in an adjacent pop-up shop. It is a treasure trove for gift seekers in a beautiful cadre.

Maison Bremont 1830, 21 rue Richard Casteau, 84220 Rousillon

An épicerie fine with beautifully packaged and presented Provencal gifts and delicatessen: kitchen accessories, olive oils, balsamic vinegars, honey, nougat, almonds, calissons and beyond. +33967232462

Where to buy Good Teas and Coffees

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Royal Moka, 1 Place Saint-Pierre, 84400 Apt

Our go to shop for quality coffee and tea. Royal Moka carries many different varieties of coffees and teas including tea gift packs from Danmann. They also serve good cappuccinos, teas with breakfast. +33 4 90 74 66 73

Les Plaisirs des Thés, 29 rue de l'Italie, 13100 Aix-en-Provence

An excellent team shop with many varieties of teas, tisanes and accessories. The range is huge including many green and black teas from Asia and different tisanes. The staff is knowledgeable and they have a interesting range of accessories. There are a few tables at the back of the shop to take a short pause with a pot of tea.

Shopping in the Outdoor Markets

Provence is rightly known for its outdoor markets,, Virtually every village has a market day which may involve a few stands in the market square or spill out into all of the surrounding streets. I find them irresistible as a place to taste the local culture: the sounds of the street musicians, the colourful stalls and the exceptional assortment of local products: sun-drenched seasonal fruits and vegetables, honey, wine, goat cheeses, nuts, sausages, lavender, fresh and dried flowers and many local crafts, tablecloths, fabrics, pottery, olive wood, straw hats etc. Bring your basket and enjoy all that is in season. A visit to the Luberon is simply not complete without a market visit.

I prefer the boisterous atmosphere of the larger markets but the smaller markets in the village square can also be a delight. I am pretty loyal to the Apt market on Saturday and the farmer’s market in Coustellet on Sunday and I also love the markets in Lourmarin (Friday) and isle-sur-la Sorgue (Thursday / Sunday also a brocante)

Other’s worth a visit: Friday morning: Bonnieux (also when en route to Lourmarin), Thursday morning: Menerbes or Goult or Robion, Tuesday morning: Lacoste (tiny) or Apt Farmer’s Market, Monday morning - Cavaillon. A little further afield: Velleron has a farmer’s market (marché paysan) every evening at 6 in the summer and every other day at 4:30 in the winter.

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Le Marché d'Apt, Saturday 84400

If there is one market to visit, visit le marché d’Apt. Every Saturday, since the twelfth century, even in the heart of winter, the market occupies the whole of the town.

At the height of the season, more than 300 exhibitors, selling all manner of seasonal fruits and vegetables; flower markets flourishing at both ends of the old town; crafts, fabrics, pottery scattered along the main street. All that one could want to buy complete with a multitude of terraces for an early morning coffee/croissant. Our preferred spot for lunch after the market is the Bistrot de France, with its spacious shady terrace in the summer. Fresh, seasonal dishes, well prepared and a friendly service. 67 Place de la Bouquerie. +33490742202

Lourmarin Market (Friday morning)

The Lourmarin market is beautifully situated spilling over from the raised village square on to the plane tree-lined avenue which leads into the centre of the village with view of the chateaux perched on the hill. More than any other this market blends blend gastronomic pleasure with stylish crafts and fashion.

After the shop head to one of the cafes (Café Gaby, Café de l’Ormeau, L’Insolite in the Place de L’Ormeau or to the terrace/courtyard of Le Moulin, which transformed an antique huilerie into a charming boutique hotel with a welcoming bar, cafe and restaurant.

Fashion Shopping

For the best of French fashion head to these world class shopping areas.

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Shopping in Aix-en-Provence, 13100

Aix-en-Provence is sometimes known as the 21st arrondissement of Paris and the fashion shopping is the best in the region. I prefer the pedestrian shopping area off the sunny side of the Cours Mirabeau:

rue Marius Reinaud - Zadig et Voltaire, Sonia Rykiel, Maje

rue Fabrot, - Robert Clergerie, First, Gerard Darel.

If driving park in the lots nearby (Parking Carnot or Parking Mignet) and you can then stroll to the shops. Street parking is virtually impossible to find.

Shopping in Marseille, rue Paradiso

Well located near the Old Port and freshly renovated, the shopping on and around Rue Paradis features major luxury brands (Kenzo, Sandro, ZAPA, IKKS, Lacoste, Montblanc) alongside newcomers and heritage stores like Maison Empéreur. Many shops are also open on Sunday.

For utterly unique shopping experiences in the area:

Maison Empereur, selling the best of French housewares, linens and hardware since 1827 in a multi-storey store on rue des Récollettes

Pere Blaize, herboristerie. Dedicated to la phytotherapie since 1815. Stocked with teas, elixirs and medicinal plants. rue Meolan.

Outlet Shopping McArthur Glen Provence, Mas de la Peronne, 13140 Miramas

Shop for well known brands at lower prices in this well maintained outlet mall from McArthur Glen. Ralph Lauren, Armani, Karl Lagerfeld have big spaces and even a new Prada store is planned. Easy parking and access to autoroute

Local shopping hotspots

If shopping is one of your favourite activities there are a few towns nearby which you will enjoy. Charming pedestrian shopping areas with chic boutiques and colourful cafes and bistros make for a very pleasant day of shopping for fashion, decor or local crafts and antiques. Lourmarin, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Les Baux are all charming shopping centres for all the chic bibelots and souvenirs you could wish for

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Shopping in Lourmarin

Many independent boutiques with original merchandise. Fashion, accessories, crafts, decor. Lourmarin is a shopper’s delight.

Shopping in Baux de Provence

The village of the Baux de Provence is situated in the heart of the Alpilles and is labelled as on of the most beautiful in France. A rich cultural history and beautiful setting are the perfect backdrop to a days shopping in the village’s unique boutiques

Shopping in l'isle-sur-la-Sorgue

In addition to the antique shops and the brocante every Sunday morning, Isle-su-la-sorgue has many independent boutiques for fashion, homewares, gifts and local crafts which are also worth a visit.

Shopping for Antiques in l'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L’Isle-sur-la-sorgue is the mecca for antique lovers with many antique emporiums and boutiques. There are two huge international antique fairs held in L’isle at Easter and mid-August which are a bi-annual ritual and the Sunday morning brocante is worth a visit. While prices are a little higher than the many village vide-greniers, the quality is typically very good and the selection also.

Villeneuve les Avignon

Less well known and a little further afield is the antique market in Villeneuve-les-avignon, in my opinion one of the best markets for antiques in the region. It takes place every Saturday with easy parking near by. A treat and the town is worthy of a visit.